A Trip to Miyajima

We recently returned from a three-day trip to the island of Miyajima, just off the coast of Hiroshima. What a beautiful place!

A major attraction at Miyajima is the Itsukushima shrine. It is built on stilts, and when the tide is in, appears to be floating on the water.

The first shrine on this site was built in about 600 A.D. The current layout was constructed in the 12th century. Itsukushima is most famous for its large red torii (gateway) which stands out among the waves when the tide is right.

Immediately upon arriving, we became acquainted with the deer of this island, which are quite tame, and will follow after you and try to nibble at anything that looks edible--even a shopping bag, as Cindy found out.

We stayed at Momijiso, a ryokan, or traditional Japanese inn. It takes its name from the word for maple, which makes sense because it's set in a park full of maple trees. The leaves fell last autumn, but even in winter the park has a rare beauty. And Momijiso itself is surrounded with quiet, carefully planned gardens.

The inn is run by an elderly woman who speaks very little English, but whose kindness needs no translation to be understood. I don't know her name, but think of her as obaasan (grandmother) since upon our arrival, she immediately adopted us as honorary grandchildren.

Part of obaasan's responsibilities included helping us understand what to do and not do on the premises. Staying at a ryokan is the chance to experience traditional Japanese lifestyle, and we are real novices. So she showed us how to dress properly (yakuta) how to eat, and which slippers to wear in which places.

Though this is a small island, it has two peaks over 1,500 feet high. Sherry (who is here from BYU spending the holidays with us) and I took the chance to climb the tallest, Mt. Misen (there is a cable car, but we preferred to hike). Our trail began in the maple park by our inn. It was steep and featured stretch after stretch of stone steps. When we got to the top of it, we found we still had quite a way to go to reach the peak of Mt. Misen.

We stopped to take pictures of the wild monkeys that frequent the area around the cable car lift, then pressed on to the top. The views were amazing.

Near the summit were a number of shrines. One has a flame which is said to have been burning continually since 600 A.D.

At the top was a three-level observation platform, well worn by time and weather.

On top of the mountain, we noticed snow flurries. We had been in shirt sleeves, heated by the exertions of the climb. But once we got to the peak, we got back into our jackets--it was very windy and cold.

We took an alternate way back down the mountain, one that took us lower and then higher, as we conquered the second-highest peak. This path was much steeper, and had many small shrines built into niches or under rock outcroppings.

Miyajima is also a great place to shop for touristy trinkets, so we spent time doing that. Like tourist destinations everywhere, there wierd and wacky points of interest that compete with the historically significant and beautiful sites. For example, among the shops is the Largest Rice Paddle In The World exhibit--we couldn't pass up the chance visit that (C. J. in the background provides a size reference).

I should also mention that part of the fun of our trip was getting there. We took the shinkansen (literally "new trunk line" but the English name "bullet train" is much cooler). Ours, the Nozomi train, is the fastest bullet train, topping out at over 180 mph, and averaging around 160. It's like flying on the ground; the train banks through turns like a jet. It took just four hours to travel the 426 (as the crow flies) miles from Tokyo to Hiroshima, and that's with five intervening station stops.

In contrast to the pace of the bullet train, our days on Miyajima were laid back and peaceful. On the morning we left, there was a delicate layer of snow which arrived overnight, lending additional beauty. I know there will be times in the upcoming year when I relax by mentally re-visiting the peaceful tranquility of Momijiso.

Edifice of the Week: LDS temple

This week's featured building is the LDS temple here in Tokyo. Completed in 1980, it is one of only two such temples in Japan. The temple is about a ten-minute walk from our home. Next door to it is the meetinghouse where we attend regular Sunday meetings.

For those not familiar with LDS temples, these are buildings dedicated to our faith's most sacred rites, such as marriage. Closed off from the outside world, they provide a haven for learning and contemplation. I appreciate the special, calm spirit I feel there. It has been many years since Cindy and I were married (in the Washington D.C. temple) and regular temple visits have been part of our life. So it's great to have a temple so close at hand.

Like most structures here in Tokyo, where acreage is at such a premium, the temple takes advantage of vertical space. It is built on a lot just under half an acre, but has a floor area of over 50,000 square feet. Because of its location, it is not easy to get a good photo of the whole temple. From across the street, its spire overlooks the lower portion of Arusigawa Memorial Park, a beautiful spot in the middle of Minami Azabu.

In the dedicatory prayer for the temple, LDS president Spencer W. Kimball remembered its neighborhood: "O Lord, we pray Thee to bless and sanctify the grounds on which this Temple stands, and with it, the fences, the walks, paths, the trees, plants, flowers and shrubbery that grow in this area. May they blossom beautifully and be pleasant for all and a haven of peace and rest for holy meditation."

Merry Christmas!

To all our friends, wherever you are: May the blessings of this season rest upon you and your homes.

Tom, Cindy, Sherry and C. J.

Sign of the Week: Police Patrol

This sign is at entry to the grocery store immediately across the street from our apartment. It's comforting to know police patrol here frequently. Actually, the sign is probably unnecessary. From its location, you can usually see at least two policemen on duty.
























The wording of signs like this often makes me smile. But actually, when you think about it, they do a pretty good job of communicating, for all their awkwardness. And I appreciate the effort. I mean, if I were asked to make a sign to put up at Timberline shopping center to help Japanese visitors understand policemen were on duty, I wouldn't do very well.

Edifice of the Week: "typical" apartment building

This week's selection is not a famous landmark, nor does it tower over its neighborhood. It is simply a typical apartment building in Azabu-Juban. Of course, as we've reviewed in earlier posts, "typical" in this neighborhood can mean it is somehow different from the other buildings on the block.
























Why did the architect choose this shape? It seems an extreme choice to me--I mean, wouldn't it generate a lot more useful floor space in this ultra-crowded city to have this building "normally" squared off at the top? Wouldn't that bring in more rent revenues, or at least be more efficient?

Maybe there's another reason, a practical engineering concern that is beyond my comprehension. I know nothing of such things. But it may be that this is simply an example of our neighborhood's aesthetic: making something different simply for variety's sake.

Vehicle of the Week: Nissan Cube

Here is the popular Nissan Cube, a small MPV that has been on the market here in Japan for years (2006 was the first year for this version, however). It looks sort of like a shrunken-down Scion.



Note the offset rear window which wraps around the left rear. The back door opens to the side, an interesting feature.


Smaller cars are becoming more popular in the U. S., and I understand Nissan is mulling an entry to the American market with this car. If that happens, remember...you saw it here first!

Doggies in the 'hood

As you might imagine, living in Tokyo has presented us with plenty of opportunities to experience "culture shock." On top of this, we are also dealing with a neigborhood that is much more exclusive than we're used to. When we moved to Cary, North Carolina a few years ago, I used to say that actually, we'd just moved from Sewell to Moorestown. Well, now we've moved from Sewell to Manhattan's upper east side. So we "don't belong" on more than one level.

Just how chichi is Azabu-Juban? One indicator is the high doggie factor. We're not talking about dogs, now--our neighborhood in Sewell has plenty of dogs--but doggies. Teacups and toys. Miniatures. Dogs with paws that never touch ground out of doors. Dogs coiffed and costumed.

Have you got a dog hospital in your neighborhood? You may. What about a dog cemetery and memorial park? A dog boutique? A dog salon? Dog spa? Dog aromatherapy? Dog massage? We have all of these and more within five blocks of each other.

It's fun to see the doggies--they're cute, even if the doggie culture is a little surreal to us. But we miss our Fritz, as I've mentioned before. Still, if he were here, he would probably feel as much culture shock as we do.